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Beauty Oils 101 + Why I Don’t Use Coconut Oil on My Skin

February 28, 2017  //  Beauty

Hi friends! How I have missed you! I have been absent, I know. I wish I had a great excuse for you, but I have just been enjoying and living life. There has been lots of family time, fun travels, and unplugging to be in the moment. I really believe life is about contraction and expansion, and there is a time to create and exert and a time to go inside and absorb. Sometimes, I don’t feel inspired to sit down and write or feel like I have anything relevant to share. Other times, I feel excited and eager to create new content that is just bursting to come out. You know?

But today, I have a topic I really eager to discuss because lately I have been OBSESSED with beauty oils. They have become a major part of not only my skincare routine, but also my makeup routine. I rarely apply foundation without adding a drop or two of an oil because it gives the most luminous, silky finish that foundation alone can’t provide. I am addicted to applying oils at night at the end of my skincare routine to lock in moisture and nourish my skin while I sleep. I also love applying them to my body when I step out of the shower while my skin is still damp.

I have been travelling A LOT, and that really takes a toll on my skin. Whenever I step off a plane, my skin looks 800xs worse than when I left. Like, just really dehydrated and dull and…gross. It takes me days to bring it back to life, and then I have to get back on a plane to get home and the cycle just repeats. The winter has also been tough on my skin because of the drier air and indoor heating. I have also been bouncing back and forth between tropical warm weather, and dry cold weather so it’s just not an ideal situation for my skin.

I was into using coconut oil as part of my skincare routine for a while about a year ago, but cut it out when I noticed major breakouts. I determined it was directly correlated to the coconut oil because my skin cleared up as soon as I removed it from my routine. I read so many amazing things about it and how anti-bacterial it is, how magical it is, how nourishing it is to the skin, and that it is basically unicorn dust. I even read tons of stuff about how it clears up acne. I figured there was no way it could be causing my breakouts, so I gave it another go and sure enough, my breakouts came right back. Make it stop!!!! I put the coco oil down and decided to stop using oils on my face altogether.

When my skin started feeling tight (the worst!) and flaky this past fall and winter, I decided to do some research about oils and see if there was a way to incorporate different types that may work better for my skin. Well, in my research I discovered the list of comedogenic ratings. An oil or ingredient that is non-comedogenic will not clog pores at all, and an oil that is comedogenic has the potential to be pore clogging. If you look on the back of some of your skincare products at home, you are bound to find a few that are labeled “non-comedogenic”, which is great. There are varying degrees of comedogenic-ness (I don’t think that’s a word, so let’s pretend) and they look like this:

0 – Will not clog pores (non-comedogenic)

1 – Low

2 – Moderately Low

3 – Moderate

4 – Fairly High

5 – High

Well…whaddya know. Coconut oil is a 4-5 on the comedogenic scale! This means there is a good chance it will clog your pores and cause acne, and should be avoided at all costs by people with normal, combo, and oily skin who are breakout prone. Ummm…why didn’t anyone tell me this before? All I heard about coconut oil was unicorn dust and here I was slathering it all over my face thinking I’d wake up a Victoria’s Secret angel. But instead I got acne. I really don’t know why this isn’t a more well known fact about coconut oil. I’m not saying it’s an inherently bad oil, but it’s really not ideal at all for the skin. Additionally, it is supposed to be incredibly moisturizing, but it actually is a very difficult oil to absorb because its fat molecules are much larger than so many other oils. The skin can’t accept it as easily, so it sits on top of the skin and basically does nothing other than smell good and make you greasy.

In my comedogenic rating research, I looked for the most non-comedogenic oils to see if I could try some of those out.

0 – Argan Oil. Hemp Seed Oil, Shea Butter, Sunflower Oil

1 – Castor Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil, Sea Buckthorn Oil

2 – Almond Oil, Avocado Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Sesame Oil

I’ve been experimenting with lots of these and and fallen in love with Argan Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil, and Shea Butter.

I love argan oil in the morning, because it sinks in so well that I can apply makeup right after. It has an incredible composition of nearly 80% fatty acids and is extremely high in vitamin E, making it like a superfood for your skin. It is an intense moisturizer that can hydrate even the driest skin, but is super lightweight and absorbs very quickly into the skin, sealing in your serums and moisturizer to help keep the skin hydrated all day. It also works wonderfully for oily skin because it balances and neutralizes your natural oil production. I have been using this daily for months and have not had a single breakout. In fact, my skin is looking the best it’s ever looked, IMO.

At night, I love using rosehip oil because I think of it as a more intense anti-aging treatment oil. It is packed with antioxidants, and vitamins A and C to stimulate collagen production, improve texture, and brighten dark spots and pigmentation. If you have any eczema or acne scarring, this is a great oil for you because its essential fatty acids promote skin regeneration. I personally love this oil so much because I notice my skin looks and feels very “fresh” and clear/even in the morning when I use this.

For my undereye area and any dry patches, as well as my neck, I adore pure shea butter. For how luxuriously rich it feels, it goes on incredibly light and smooth on the skin. I rub a scoop between my hands to melt it down and massage it all around my eye area, lips, and any dry patches on my face. I also take it all the way down my neck because I am understanding more and more with age how important it is to take care of that area. I even rub it on my cuticles, elbows, knees, and feet. Shea butter helps soften the skin, boost collagen production, and reduce wrinkles by deeply hydrating and plumping the skin. Its healing properties and plant sterols have also been shown to help reduce stretch marks and scarring, soothe skin rashes and sunburn, and even muscle fatigue. I keep a big tin next to my bed and dip into it all the time because it works for everything.

A very important fact about oils is that you cannot effectively moisturize with them. A great example I read of this is like sitting in a car while it’s raining outside and expecting to get wet. You just won’t. Moisturizers are comprised of 3 factors: humectants, occlusives, and emollients. Humectants (like glycerin and hyaluronic acid) are the only things that can pull water into the skin and moisturize. Oils are part of the occlusive and emollient designation. They seal the moisture into your skin by coating it as the last layer. This is not the same as drawing water and hydration into the skin. (source)

One big tip I have with oils that is so important in their application is they should be the very last step of your skincare routine. If you apply an oil before your other products, any moisturizer or serum treatment won’t be able to penetrate and sink into the skin. Oils should be used last, as a sealant to prevent the moisture you’ve applied with your other humectant products from escaping. Just as they can lock moisture in, they can also be a barrier to keep it out if they are applied before moisturizing treatments like serums and lotions.

Another important tip is to always purchase 100% pure oils! Many oils are cut with cheaper oils or have other oils blended in that are more comedogenic, which you may not notice unless you read the ingredients.

I hope this was helpful for some of you who haven’t been able to find an oil that works for your skin or have been scared to try them at all! Now that I have found the right types for my skin and understand the comedogenic rating scale for various oils, I have a whole new love for them and really enjoy using them in my skincare routine!!

I will leave you with a list of my favorites to check out:

FAVORITE OILS

Argan Oil

Rosehip Oil

Shea Butter

Runners Up:

Jojoba Oil

Sunflower Oil

Hemp Seed Oil

 // 

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  • Liz Stark

    Super interesting! I’m even more relieved now about my skincare routine – no comedogenic oils here 🙂

  • Kristin Barnes

    Wow good to know that Coconut oil actually isn’t that great for your skin! Thank you! I love Argan Oil so I’ll continue to use that.
    <3 Kristin | BlondeisBeauty.com

  • karin

    Too weird, I was just thinking this morning how I have not have a lot of luck with face oils of any type. Perhaps I put too much on, but I always wind up looking greasy and having greasy looking bangs = not hot. Anyway, I will try a drop in the foundation. Thanks for the tips.

  • Rachel @ Better LIVIN

    Great tips! A lot of people have been recommending essential oils like rosehip to help with wrinkles! I better order some ASAP.

  • Elisse Montgomery

    I love this post! I’ve been using the Osmia Organics rose oil, a splurge but worth it. I do have a question about the layering process. Do you use hyaluronic acid first, then moisturizer, and then an oil? What is your full process?

  • Sisi

    I never knew that different oils had different comedogenic properties! This post is so helpful!
    -Sisi
    http://www.modernbeautygirl.com

  • Annie Lawless

    Awesome!!! Oils can be sooooo great for your skin when you use the right ones! I think they have helped my skin so much. So funny how I thought they were awful when I was using the more comedogenic ones (like coconut oil)! xoxo

  • Annie Lawless

    I know! It gets SO much buzz and is totally hype marketed as being this magical thing, but it’s clearly shown to be pore clogging, acnegenic, and difficult to absorb. Goes to show, doing your research before buying into hype about buzz ingredients or products of the moment is really important. XOXO

  • Annie Lawless

    Good, I’m glad this post came at the right time for you!! oils definitely shouldn’t make you look greasy – they should absorb! heavier ones like coconut that just sit on the skin cause that problem, but definitely give some of the others a try! I think the drop or two in foundation is the best trick I have ever discovered!! I literally cannot do my base without it now because it just silkifies the foundation and helps it glide over the skin so naturally and beautifully. Especially if you have any blemishes or dry patches that foundation can typically cling to..the oil takes that away entirely! XOXO

  • Annie Lawless

    you will love rosehip! It is one oil that I really noticed a visible difference in pigmentation and dark spots when I started using it. I had a bad habit of picking my skin when I saw a blemish appear, which is the worst thing because it leaves a purple dark spot for weeks after, and this really cleared those up! XO

  • Annie Lawless

    thanks babe! The order I follow is: Oil cleanse to break down makeup (I use jojoba for this), regular cleanse to remove the residue and sebum built up throughout the day, spritz my skin with rosewater, tone with whatever toner i need that day (whether my skin is dry, oily, broken out, etc), then I use serums I need that day – usually hydrating, most of which contain hyaluronic acid and glycerin since those are almost always found in hydrating serums – OR an acid one like glycoclic or lactic if I need exfoliation and resurfacing, etc. OR a brightening one with vitamin C if my skin is dully. Then, I moisturize with either a gel or heavier cream moisturizer. FINALLY, I go in with 3-4 drops of rosehip or argan oil (or a mix of both) and press it into my skin. Lastly, I massage the shea butter around my eye area, lips, and any red or dry patches on my face. I hope that helps!! XOXO

  • Liz Gospel

    LOVE this post Annie! I am so hooked on Acure’s rosehip oil I’ve seriously gone through 5 bottles already! Thank you for the tip about applying moisturizer first before my oils, I had no idea. I use a hyaluronic moisturizer and then my rosehip oil before makeup and before bed. Interested in what moisturizers you recommend for a future post XX

  • Annie Lawless

    Me either! Once I did some research and learned that not all oils are created equal for your skin, it completely changed my perception that all of them were too heavy and pore clogging for me to use. It was just that I was using the wrong ones. I am glad this was helpful for you! XO

  • Annie Lawless

    I love Acure’s packaging too!!!! It is so pretty and I love how pure + organic their oils are! I plan to purchase more of their oils because I know they do argan oil too! I can for sure do a post about the best moisturizers for different times/skin types because I use quite a few and have a rotation for my different needs. I also think it’s helpful to select moisturizers that will work synergistically with the oils you plan to use after.

    XOXO

  • Janine Soltman

    Okay, I LOVED this post.. I too had to stop using coconut oil on my face and I’m super into the geeky research side of these things! Love the info you always share! xoxo

  • Liz Gospel

    I’ve used their marula oil as well and would definitely recommend! Will have to try their argan!!

  • CM

    Ahh thank you so much for this post. I did know that oils had varying levels of comedogenic-ness 🙂 but never took the time to actually look up what the lowest ones were, so I really appreciate this post as a resource. Also love Acure – great organic products at such an affordable price. A tip if you use seabuckthorn- go for the seed oil vs the fruit oil, because the fruit oil will turn you (and everything your face comes into contact with) a bright shade of orange.

  • Anne McDonough

    LOVE this! I’ve never had any skin issues/very few breakouts but ever since I started using Coconut Oil I’ve gotten breakouts on my back. What do you sub coconut oil for on your body?

  • Pia @ Gymbags and Jetlags

    I’ve never thought of using oil under foundation but that’s such a brilliant idea! Thank you so much for this guide; oils still kinda scare me so I need all the reassurance I can get!

    xx, Pia
    http://gymbagsandjetlags.com

  • Erin

    Excellent post. So informative!

  • runspud

    Awesome information! Thanks for the thorough explanation and tips. It all makes perfect sense but if left to trial and error would have taken a long time to figure out. I began adding a drop or two of marula oil into my 1 pump of foundation after hearing it from The no BS Wayne Goss. Will never stop-it makes foundation blend in beautifully while sealing in moisturizer to my somewhat dry skin.

  • Annie Lawless

    Oh good! I’m so glad you liked it and that it was helpful!!! Stay tuned for more posts like these since you guys like them so much! xo

  • Annie Lawless

    oh thanks for the seabuckthorn tip! i would not have known that!! xoxo

  • Annie Lawless

    Hi!! On my body I use jojoba oil or almond oil! The issue with coconut oil on my body was never breakouts like my face, it was that it did absolutely NOTHING to moisturize my skin because it is so heavy it just wouldn’t sink in. It also wasn’t practical because I would be so greasy and couldn’t put clothes on even an hour+ after applying it. xoxo

  • Annie Lawless

    thanks for reading!! xo

  • Annie Lawless

    you’re so welcome – thanks for reading! I love love love mixing oils into my foundation. It completely beautifies the finish! XOXO

  • Annie Lawless

    thanks so much love! xo

  • Annie Lawless

    Right?!?!? The oil trick is the BEST. I can never go back. thanks so much for reading! xo

  • Rachel D.

    Omg this rating scale is the best! I have always broken out with oils but wanted to use them because of the great benifits. Now I know others to try that will have a better outcome. Thanks!

  • Christine Tarullo

    Ok this post was amazing! I SO needed this. Do you have any recommendations as to which oils are best for your hair? Thanks love!

  • K Love

    Thanks for the post. I decided to try some organic Rosehip oil in my foundation this morning and so far, so good. My (very oily skin) seems to be holding up nicely. My skin feels lovely and I’m not shiny yet. Usually I am by lunch time. Hoping this will become a staple in my beauty routine. 🙂

  • Nikki Ku

    So glad I’m not the only one that breaks out from coconut oil! This post came at the perfect time because I was looking into trying oils. Would love if you could recommend or do a post on moisturizers that work for you Annie!

  • Carly Lindsay

    Thanks for outlining all of this, Annie! I’ve had Argan oil sitting in my bathroom forever and never really understood what it would be good for. Since I read this, I’ve been using it at night to “seal” in my other face products and my skin is glowing!

    Have you heard of Living Libations? I think you would love their products… they’re all the rage in the health/beauty world at the moment! The founder is super knowledgeable, beautiful, and only uses the best ingredients. I love the Sea Buckthorn and Rose face serums she has 🙂

  • April

    I wonder what number raspberry seed oil falls under

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